Greenwood -- Robert Johnson's last gig and John Hurt's home

I went to two grave sites today, two blues legends, both resting appropriately, it seems to me.

Robert Johnson grave

Robert Johnson's last gig was at the Three Forks, a jook on the west side of town.  The jook was destroyed when a tornado hit 60 years ago, but the story of Robert's death lives on in many variations.  Shortly after playing, Robert collapsed and died several days later.  The coroner said syphillis, but the story that survives is that the club owner, whose wife had taken more than a shine to Robert, poisoned him.  There are three Robert Johnson grave sites, but the one likely to be the final resting place is just north of Greenwood.  A modern stone includes a tortured note Robert wrote when he knew he was dying.  If he speaks from the grave, it is a story of torment and of brilliance.

I also visited Avalon, just north and east of Greenwood.  John Hurt lived most of his life in Avalon, farming and playing at parties around the area.  You can hear his love of place in his song Avalon

Avalon is my hometown, always on my mind
Avalon is my hometown, always on my mind
Pretty mama's in Avalon want me there all the time

John Hurt's grave

 John's resting place is not easy to find.  Several miles up a rutted dirt road, in a beautiful private glade. It seems to me an appropriate place for a man who was kind, gentle and private.  And the place is tight, too.  Just on the very edge of the hill country, where the Piedmont begins its rise.  Maybe it's the place that influenced John to play in the the Piedmont style, so dramatically different from the Delta style of the flat land to the west of the hill country.

Anyway, getting there was a worthwhile challenge, as the Element attests